In the 1960s, racism was widespread in the American South. Discrimination was widespread, and Black individuals that lived there were forced to endure unjust segregation. Despite this unfortunate reality, there were sometimes Black people from the North that would travel south, and to help minimize the amount of racism they were exposed to, a travel guide known as the Green Book directed them to establishments that were less discriminatory.
Named after that very book, an American movie is centered on the journey of Doctor Don Shirley, a well-educated, sophisticated Black pianist, and his driver, an Italian bouncer. Through this journey of food and conversation, their relationship blooms.
Throughout the film, Southern food maintains a persistent presence. During their drive, the driver—Tony Lip—stops for fried chicken. Doctor Don reveals that this is his first time, much to Tony’s shock, as the driver had held the preconception that all Black people frequently consumed fried chicken. This assumption infuriates Don, whose upbringing in the North had limited his experience with racism.
Later, they arrive in the South, where Doctor Don plans to perform his concert. However, when he attempts to enter the dining hall, he is blocked because he is Black. The pianist chooses to leave without performing, maintaining his dignity. With Lip’s assistance, they head to an informal dining establishment with a much more amiable atmosphere.
In this venue, Doctor Don and Lip are served soul food, which refers to the cuisine associated with African-Americans in the South. During times of bondage, it served as a tie to their ethnic identity and a symbol of cultural pride. More than that, it was also a means of camaraderie and companionship among those who are sharing the meal.
However, it is important to note that Southern cuisine is a melting pot of flavors and heritages that extend beyond soul food, including, for instance, Cajun dishes. Each dish, whether it be gumbo, jambalaya, shrimp and grits, or sea bass, has a story and fosters diversity.
Fried chicken, for instance, was first published in English cook Hannah Glasse’s 1747 cookbook, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. It was the first written recipe for fried chicken. Despite the fact that several different regions were already frying chicken, from China to Africa to the Middle East, it should be noted that the fried chicken that most people associate the term with is Southern fried chicken.
It is believed that the method of deep-frying chicken came from Scottish immigrants while African slaves brought the dish to new heights through their knowledge of seasoning. This, along with chicken’s reputation as a “poor man’s food” due to its plentitude, led fried chicken to be a cheap, affordable meal for African-Americans in the civil war’s aftermath. However, it also became a symbol of ridicule to be used against African-Americans.
Over time, fried chicken was popularized in the South, and fast food chains selling fried chicken would emerge. This surge in popularity was partly due to the economic low brought by the Great Depression in America, which increased the demand for cheap meals.
Meanwhile, gumbo is closely associated with both Cajun and Creole roots, thought to most directly originate from Louisiana. However, what is lesser known is that it actually evolved from an okra stew in West Africa; in fact, its name comes from the French term for okra, “gombo.” As time went on, the dish would be assimilated into New Orleans cuisine. Today, it is much more common to use a flour-based roux to thicken gumbo, rather than okra or file powder.
Another prominent Southern food is barbecue, one of the most popular foods originating there; as a slow-cooking dish, it was cooked in large gatherings where people could intermingle and helped promote interunity between the North and South, especially after the civil war. Potlucks are one such type of communal congregations, using Southern food as a means to emphasize and facilitate a sense of community, family, and celebration. The Bible Belt—referring to the southern region of the United States—holds partial credit for these characteristics. Due to the deep Christian focus of this area and their emphasis on Puritan values like family, southern food became the glue that ties people together, embodying acceptance and friendship.
The Green Book’s legacy encompasses far more than the protection of Black people during the Jim Crow era. More than that, it also offered comfort and camaraderie, giving these individuals a sense of safety and respite in a time where discrimination was rampant. Fried chicken may not be gourmet, but it holds a genuine sense of hospitality and fellowship that could never be replicated.
A Little History:
Referring to the slow-cooking of meat over a fire, barbecue is easily one of the most iconic American dishes. However, what is lesser known is that barbecue has its roots in the indigenous peoples of the Caribbeans. It was the Spanish that brought it up north to the Americas. Interestingly, the word barbecue originally meant the structure on which the meat was cooked before expanding to refer to the gathering where the cooking took place. It was after World War II that barbecues by individual households became more common.
Sources
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